The 3 Most Significant Disasters In Audi G28 History
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In this video, Charles the humble mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. The sensor is located near the edges of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a message to the ECU via the grey wire T55/49 and then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated at the edges of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. This sensor sends a signal via the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU utilizes this information to regulate the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends an alert to the G5 Tachometer within the instrument cluster.
The sensor serves as a reference to correlate with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must know when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display an error code P00160. This means that the Crank Shaft is not in alignment with the Intake Camshaft. It could also indicate a chain stretch or a jumpy chain link in the upper timing chain. However the code will not appear on its own, without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It is a little tricky to test since there are several connector pins, and each one has different functions. The most effective method to test it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. When the sensor is fully operational, it should be reading approximately 1000 ohms. If you're having issues with this part, check for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll, I experienced massive power loss like the engine is running out of gas or the injectors aren't firing anymore. In the morning, i removed the spark plugs, 3 were soaked with gazoline and the fourth was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each injector hole, and when I turn the engine on without sparks, the 3 that have gazoline pop right out. The fourth one remains shut. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I got zero ohm. I assume that the problem is in another location.
I also tried to reset PID but without success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it is running fine with the G28 plugged in. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The temperature sensor for coolant (G62) shows the wrong temperature of that is -49c even after unplugging it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar but the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much eliminated everything else. I'm concerned that i may have missed something. If anyone has suggestions, please chime in! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump on the g28 is activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is identical to the G4 and they both work in the 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or in a local parts store. It is simple to test them - put your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from left on the black connector's side). They must be infinite ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines must know both the position and speed of the crankshaft in order to make a decision about timing of fuel injectors, etc. In order to do this it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you are experiencing issues with either of these sensors, the diagnostic scanner will display codes that could lead to an engine shutdown.
Some of the signs of a failed G28 sensor are an inaccurate gearbox rev counter the gears are shifting faster than normal, and/or a misfire when you're in gear. It is probable that your sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these signs. They are cheap and easy-to-find especially when they're an Bosch sensor like ours. If you prefer, GM's version of this part would be an excellent choice.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine sensor could cause a myriad of issues in your vehicle. It's a vital component of the audi a3 spare key's transmission since it relays information to the ECU about how the car's crankshaft is turning. This sensor can cause the transmission to fail and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the edge of transmission, above the flywheel ring. It transmits an electrical signal through a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then uses and processes the signal to control fuel, timig and boost and then sends it on to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can test the sensor for failure by checking continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see an average resistance of 1000 ohms in these areas. This is a typical part across the audi tt key programming 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones could be available in wrecking yards.
In this video, Charles the humble mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. The sensor is located near the edges of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a message to the ECU via the grey wire T55/49 and then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed SensorThe grey wire is situated at the edges of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. This sensor sends a signal via the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU utilizes this information to regulate the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends an alert to the G5 Tachometer within the instrument cluster.
The sensor serves as a reference to correlate with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must know when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display an error code P00160. This means that the Crank Shaft is not in alignment with the Intake Camshaft. It could also indicate a chain stretch or a jumpy chain link in the upper timing chain. However the code will not appear on its own, without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It is a little tricky to test since there are several connector pins, and each one has different functions. The most effective method to test it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. When the sensor is fully operational, it should be reading approximately 1000 ohms. If you're having issues with this part, check for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll, I experienced massive power loss like the engine is running out of gas or the injectors aren't firing anymore. In the morning, i removed the spark plugs, 3 were soaked with gazoline and the fourth was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each injector hole, and when I turn the engine on without sparks, the 3 that have gazoline pop right out. The fourth one remains shut. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I got zero ohm. I assume that the problem is in another location.
I also tried to reset PID but without success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it is running fine with the G28 plugged in. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The temperature sensor for coolant (G62) shows the wrong temperature of that is -49c even after unplugging it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar but the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much eliminated everything else. I'm concerned that i may have missed something. If anyone has suggestions, please chime in! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump on the g28 is activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is identical to the G4 and they both work in the 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or in a local parts store. It is simple to test them - put your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from left on the black connector's side). They must be infinite ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines must know both the position and speed of the crankshaft in order to make a decision about timing of fuel injectors, etc. In order to do this it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you are experiencing issues with either of these sensors, the diagnostic scanner will display codes that could lead to an engine shutdown.
Some of the signs of a failed G28 sensor are an inaccurate gearbox rev counter the gears are shifting faster than normal, and/or a misfire when you're in gear. It is probable that your sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these signs. They are cheap and easy-to-find especially when they're an Bosch sensor like ours. If you prefer, GM's version of this part would be an excellent choice.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine sensor could cause a myriad of issues in your vehicle. It's a vital component of the audi a3 spare key's transmission since it relays information to the ECU about how the car's crankshaft is turning. This sensor can cause the transmission to fail and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the edge of transmission, above the flywheel ring. It transmits an electrical signal through a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then uses and processes the signal to control fuel, timig and boost and then sends it on to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can test the sensor for failure by checking continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should see an average resistance of 1000 ohms in these areas. This is a typical part across the audi tt key programming 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones could be available in wrecking yards.
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