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Much of their time in the Ottoman capital was spent purchasing provisions and hiring porters. The travellers were a day's march behind the imperial troops who had been sent in to quell the rebellion, and who frequently left the roadside inns in a deplorable state. The expedition frequently visited American missionaries along their route, celebrating Christmas in Mardin with the local mission of the American Board in Turkey. As the expedition moved out of the Hittite heartlands, we begin to see in Wrench's fieldbooks the beginnings of a new interest in the medieval architecture of the Syriac-speaking Christian communities. The expedition beat the worst of the snows and was in the lowlands of northern Mesopotamia by December. Much of their time in the Ottoman capital was spent purchasing provisions and hiring porters. The trip's employees would do much more than carry the baggage. At Binbirkilise, a Byzantine site on the Konya plain, they visited the veteran English researchers Gertrude Bell and William Ramsay. Their first major achievement came at the Hattusha, site of the Hittite capital, where they set to work on a hieroglyphic inscription of six feet in height and over twenty feet in length, known in Turkish as "Nişantaş" (the marked stone). We now know that Nişantaş celebrates the deeds of Shupiluliuma II, last of the Great Kings of Hattusha. As they made their way to the regional center, Diyarbakır, they heard that the city was in revolt: the local worthies had occupied the telegraph office to protest the depredations enacted by a local chieftain. But as they pressed on across the steppes that today form the far northeastern corner of Syria, the strains of six months' steady travel began to show

nA group of international intellectuals later nominated Aylisli for the Nobel Peace Prize. According to witnesses, as quoted in Armenian reports, in a three-day operation last December, Azerbaijani soldiers armed with sledgehammers obliterated the remnants of the Djulfa cemetery (known as Jugha in Armenian). A decade later, as the Soviet Union was crumbling, Azerbaijani historians claimed that the churches and cross-stones of Nakhichevan were not the work of medieval Armenians but that of long-gone "Caucasian Albanians," whom many Azerbaijanis consider to be ancestors, even though the extinct nation’s geographic distribution never included Nakhichevan. Its 2005-2006 demolition was the "grand finale" of Azerbaijan’s eradication of Nakhichevan’s Armenian past. The Bakirköy 3rd High Criminal Court acquitted all suspects including Mullah Muhammed of al-Qaeda charges on December 15, 2015. In a contradiction of past reports about Tahşiyeciler, the Security General Directorate (Emniyet) also issued a new report whitewashing the activities of the group. In addition, according to Ina McCabe’s Orientalism in Early Modern France, many of Europe’s first cafés were founded by these Djulfa (Julfan) merchants in the seventeenth century - contributing to a culture that, as Adam Gopnik writes in The New Yorker’s last issue of 2018, "helped lay the foundation for the liberal Enlightenment." Save for appropriated Armenian folklore linking the region to the Biblical Noah, whose ark was said to have landed on nearby Mount Ararat, Nakhichevan’s Armenian past has all but been erased. He was deported from Azerbaijan for radical activities in 2003 but managed to return few years later. A group of international intellectuals later nominated Aylisli for the Nobel Peace Prize. While some Azerbaijanis have embraced their government’s vandalism as either righteous revenge or a national security measure against potential Armenian territorial claims, other Azerbaijanis - in addition to the humanist author Akram Aylisli - have mourned the destruction

A response issued by the Embassy of Azerbaijan in Brussels in January, insisted that Armenian allegations were made "to delude the international community" and detract attention from "atrocities committed by the Armenian troops in the occupied territories of Azerbaijan, where no single Azerbaijani monument has been left undamaged". Likely due to three factors - its noticeable position on an international border, reputation as the world’s largest collection of khachkars, and previously voiced Armenian concerns for its preservation - Djulfa was the last major Armenian site in Nakhichevan to be destroyed. Baku’s ability to court friendships has produced many notable results, including a 2015 Time Magazine op-ed describing Azerbaijan as "an oasis of tolerance," commendations of Azerbaijan’s "exemplary interfaith harmony" in several US state legislatures, and medals bestowed upon Azerbaijan’s Vice President - President Aliyev’s wife - by the leaders of France, the Russian Orthodox Church, and even UNESCO, the international organization charged with protecting world heritage. 10, 2016. Russian intelligence documents even furnished the license plate numbers of trucks dispatched by the IHH loaded with arms and supplies bound for al-Qaeda-affiliated groups including the Nusra Front. The Erdoğan government helped save the IHH from legal troubles in Turkey while mobilizing resources and diplomatic clout to back the IHH in global operations. On March 10, Suren Baghdasaryan, 51, a resident of the village of Khramort, was wounded in the back while doing agricultural work in the yard of his residential house

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